Útek do ázijskej divočiny: Stopom do Indie s Peťom a Kubom

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Občas má každý chuť opustiť všedný svet stereotypov a problémov a vydať sa ďaleko od všetkého. Ochutnať nové krajiny, spoznať vzdialené kultúry alebo aj nájsť samého seba. Tímto dvom chalanom zo Slovenska chuť spoznávať vôbec nechýba. Predminulý rok sa vydali stopom naprieč Áziou, kde trávili fantastických 10 mesiacov.  Popýtal som Peťa, aby sa s nami podelil o zážitky z ich vzrušujúcej cesty. 

 Ahoj Peťo, na začiatok nám prezraď niečo o vás, z kade ste a čomu sa na Slovensku venujete?

Ahoj, sme dvaja najlepší kamoši spod Tatier, ktorí počas školy okúsili cestovanie a trošku slobody. Spoznali sme sa v prváku na Výške v Banskej Bystrici a zhruba vtedy sme spolu začali cestovať bez rezervačiek, plánov, so stanom a stopom. Presnejšie sa naše príbehy začali písať v 90-tych rokoch v Martine a Jurkyho v Starej Ľubovni. Máme radi strácanie, minimalizmus, spoznávanie nových svetov a schovaných miest. Hneď po škole sme sa vydali zatiaľ na našu najdobrodružnejšiu cestu, stopom do ďalekej Ázie. Myslíme si, že kariéra je vynález 20-teho storočia a nechceme ju, aspoň nie teraz. Tentokrát sme sa chceli dostať aspoň po Indiu čo sa nám podarilo a nakoniec sme sa teda väčšinovo stopom dostali po Kambodžu, kde sme sa po úžasných 10-tich mesiacoch otočili a behom 10-hodín v lietadle sme boli naspäť na Slovensku, zvláštny pocit. Práve ten návrat bol asi najväčší kultúrny šok. No a čoskoro pôjdeme niekam ďalej, ešte sa presne nevie kde, čiže Slovensko je len taká medzizastávka.

Máte za sebou už niekoľko ciest, boli ste v Amerike a Maroku. Čo váš inšpiruje cestovať po svete?

Neskutočne ma láka spoznávanie iných svetov, kultúr, ľudí a nemenej aj samého seba. Myslím si, že najviac sa dokážeme spoznať, keď sa nachádzame práve v čo najvzdialenejších svetoch od toho nášho. A keď sme vystavení mimokomfortným cestám, nie tým lehátkovým. A možno si aj trošku viac uvedomíme ako zafarbený je ten náš stredoeurópsky svet. Naša krásna malá krajina je úžasná a uznávam, že ju mám pocestovanú menej, ale na to si nechávam asi čas, príde mi tu cestovanie jednoduchšie. Po amazonských džungliach sa mi bude v 60-tke behať asi ťažšie. Ale hlavne preto, že to tak teraz cítim, hlavná je pre mňa prítomnosť. Ale to má každý inak. Pamätám sa, ako keď sme sa s kamarátmi prvýkrát vydali do Severnej Ameriky, kde sme strávili štyri mesiace, vtedy som prvýkrát okúsil veľký svet, všetko som fotil, kúpil som si tričko „I love New York“ a odvtedy, počas pár rokov, sa to dosť zmenilo. Fotiek ubudlo, oblečenia tiež, pribudlo viac vidieka, prírody a punkáčiny.

Jurky a Klochy v iranskej pusti

Prečo Ázia, čo vás ťahalo vydať sa na východ?

Neviem či to viem presne pomenovať, slová mi na toto prídu nedostatočné. Ale niečo tam bolo, niečo v diaľke nás priťahovalo. Ale aj teraz mi príde Ázia ako asi najrozmanitejší kontinent rozličných kultúr a svetov. Krajina vedľa krajiny a niečo úplne iné. A samozrejme aj to, čo sme veľakrát počuli a čítali. Viac úsmevov, menej stresu, iné ponímanie času…

Celý život v 40-litrovom batohu

 Ako ste riešili samotnú cestu, mali ste nejaký plán čo chcete prejsť?

Náš plán bol hlavne vyraziť. 😀 Keď sa už raz odhodláme a spravíme prvý krok, ostatné sa vyrieši. A jediná taká plánovejšia bola asi India, stopovať naprieč indickým subkontinentom bol náš sen. Inak sme si dopredu nevybavovali ani žiadne víza, všetko sme riešili po ceste. Iránske víza v Istanbule, indické v Ankare a rovnako v Ankare, ale neúspešne víza pakistanské. Nie vždy nám všetko vyšlo. Cestovné poistenie sme si však vybavili ešte na Slovensku a rovnako aj najzákladnejšie očkovania. Inak sme rodine povedali, že sa možno vrátime po 4-och mesiacoch alebo po pol roku, aj keď sme dúfali, že to bude asi dlhšie. Počas cesty sme boli už aj v takej nálade, že by sme pokračovali smer na východ donekonečna a ešte ďalej, ale život nám to zariadil tak, že sme sa z Juhovýchodnej Ázie trošku nečakane vrátili, aspoň teda ja hlavne kvôli rodinným záležitostiam.

 Koľko krajín ste prešli?

Prešli sme 13 krajín, čo nie je za takú dobu veľa, ale stále nám to príde, že nám to vyhovuje ešte pomalšie, preniknúť a nasať atmosféru miesta o kúsok viac. Na druhej strane, ak našu cestu vnímame bez vymyslených hraníc len ako jedno dlhé dobrodružstvo odniekiaľ zo stredu najmenšieho svetadielu na východ toho najväčšieho, tak sa nám to v myšlienkach pekne zlieva dokopy a dáva to zmysel. Ten všetok prach, nekonečné lúče slnka, obrovské úsmevy ľudí a cesta, ktorej nevidíme koniec, iba lákavý horizont nepoznaného.

10 mesiacov na ceste

Na instagrame som vašu cestu podrobne sledoval, ako to bolo s pripojením na internet?

Tak to sa dozvedám až teraz. ☺ O Instagram sa stará hlavne Jurky a s internetom to bola veru sranda. Napríklad v Indii nám daroval jeden majiteľ malej reštiky svoju simkartu, kde mal neobmedzený internet a tak sme mali vystarané. Asi ťažšie na tom bolo dobíjať mobil. Malo to aj dobré pokrytie a tak raz priamo pri stopovaní vzadu na otvorenej vlečke niekde na úplnom vidieku sme spravili živý vstup. 😀 Náš vôbec prvý. Ale koľkokrát má lákalo sa zo všetkého vypnúť a cestovať čisto offline, ale ešte dávnejšie sme si povedali, že to skúsime, spísali sme si pre a proti a nakoniec nás to zlákalo. Vďaka zdieľaniu fotiek a príbehov na internete sme sa skontaktovali so super ľuďmi. Inak sú dnes často už aj tie najchudobnejšie ázijské časti zaplnené smartphonmi a je to cítiť. Ešte nie tak dávno, keď bol internet väčším problémom, miestni ľudia aj viac vyzvedali (čo sme počuli príbehy od starších cestovateľov), no dnes si už môžu veľa vecí vygoogliť. A určite to bolo aj väčšie dobrodružstvo cestovať a hľadať informácie od ľudí. Preto nie som veľkým zástancom všemožných cestovateľských aplikácií, ktoré to všetko uľahčujú, to uznávam, ale práve o to ide. No a teraz sme sa z internetu riadne odmlčali ako sme sa vrátili z Ázie, ale pravdepodobne sa čoskoro online navrátime.

Bombový stop v Indii

Koľko vás celá cesta stála a ako ste si počas cesty riešili nocľah?

Dokopy asi 3 až 4 tisíc eur na jedného. Zobrali sme si so sebou stan, čiže veľká časť bola kempovanie kade tade, či už v divočine, v mestách alebo na plážach. Ďalej cez Couchsurfing, to je tá stránka, kde môžete kontaktovať domácich a ak vás akceptujú tak môžete u nich prespať zadara. Ale neberme to len ako ušetrenie alebo ako hotel zadarmo. Môže sa to zneužívať napríklad tak, že ak vás niekto akceptuje, prídete k nemu, zhodíte si batoh a vyparíte sa niekam do mesta sami. Nie je to o tom, že nocovanie je zadara, ale že budete aj nejaký ten čas zdieľať s domácimi, oni sú väčšinou na vás zvedaví, radi s vami niekam pôjdu alebo si môžete navariť a opiť sa spolu. Potom sme nocovali aj tak, že sme niekoľkokrát dobrovoľničili a vtedy vám väčšinou poskytnú stravu a ubytko výmenou za prácu. Alebo sme spali na vlakovej stanici na zemi vedľa ďalších niekoľkých desiatok Indov, alebo počas stopu v noci v kabínke kamióna, alebo v reštike, na streche, v chráme a tak všemožne. A pár nocí sme si aj zaplatili v lacnejších ubytovniach alebo cez airbnb.

Nečakaný sirotčinec cez indický couchsurfing

 Ako ľudia v Ázii reagovali na stopovanie?

Rôzne, Turecko je raj stopárov a hneď vo vedľajšom Iráne to takmer nepoznajú. Tam je to dosť o výdrži pretože stojíte na ceste, začnete mávať a zrazu vám zastaví 5 áut za sebou. Naučenou frázou sme sa im snažili vysvetliť, že sa presúvame stopom a teda za jazdu neplatíme, ale u nich fungujú také akoby súkromné taxíky, ktoré sa ťažko rozpoznajú. Popri bežných taxíkoch ako taxi zastavujú aj normálne autá, ktorých vodiči si privyrábajú ako taxikári ala second job. No a keďže navyše nevedia, že existuje stopovanie tak odídu. V Indii to tiež moc nepoznajú, tam majú len takzvané lifty na krátke vzdialenosti, kde sem tam niekoho zoberú medzi sebou. Ale keď videli nás s batohmi tak nám zastavili veľmi často a chceli nám pomôcť, aj keď nevedeli čo je stopovanie. Avšak sa to často aj lepšie vysvetlí vďaka rozšírenejšej angličtine. Potom sú celkom prekvapení, keď nás počujú rozprávať, že sme si takýto život sami vybrali, že cestujeme nízkonákladovo, často v špine, len so stanom. Nepoznajú moc investovanie času do vlastného dobrodružstva. Ale oproti striktnej Európe je Ázia na stopovanie úžasná. Zoberú vás na všelijaký spôsob, nemajú žiadne zákazy alebo je im to jedno. Či na streche, na vlečke, v traktore alebo aj viacerých naraz.

Iránsky vidiek

 Vaša konečná destinácia mala byť India, bol za vašou cestou aj hlbší – spirituálny rozmer?

Veru áno. Síce verím, že spirituálnejšie sa dá začať vnímať svet aj v preplnenom veľkomeste, že na mieste až tak nezáleží, ale India nás lákala aj týmto rozmerom. Spirituálnejšiu a čistejšiu cestu sme najprv očakávali už od Iránu, keďže je tam predsa takmer všetko zakázané, ale boli sme trošku prekvapení a nevedeli sme povedať nie na všemožné zakázané dobroty, ktoré nám ponúkali. No a tak to začalo až v Indii, prestali sme brať všemožné drogy včetne alkoholu, tabaku, prešli sme na vegánsku stravu, začali sme meditovať, čítali sme si podobné knížky a naše zmysly sa začali trošku meniť. A vydržalo nám to pekných pár mesiacov a asi prvýkrát v živote som bol opitý z toľkej triezvosti. 😀

Zažili ste nejaké uvedomenie, o ktoré by ste sa radi podelili?

Možno aj toto nám dalo myšlienku zastaviť sa, zastaviť sa naozaj, pozrieť sa na vlastné dlane, rozhliadnuť sa naokolo, uvedomiť si, že žijeme, že sme tu, a to v tom najdôležitejšom, v prítomnosti. To je to jediné čo máme. Koľkokrát žijem buď v minulosti alebo budúcnosti. Buď spomínam alebo sa už teším a neviem sa dočkať ako dorazím tam a tam a ako mi bude potom dobre. Ale pritom mi uniká prítomnosť a to aj vtedy, keď je to jeden z tých momentov, na ktoré som sa najviac tešil. Tých uvedomení je asi viac, ale to môžeme prebrať niekde spolu pri pive alebo na čaji ak sa stretneme aj naživo. ☺

Varanasi na brehu posvätnej Gangy

 Čo vás na celej ceste najviac prekvapilo? Stalo sa vám, že ste si povedali “Čožééé, to čo je?

Napríklad si teraz spomeniem ako sme jeden neurčitý deň stopovali, išli sme stále ďalej a ďalej a tak prišla tma a auto nás vysadilo v nejakej neznámej dedine niekde na juhu Indie. Sem tam sa pýtame ľudí, kde by sme si mohli postaviť stan aby nás neprekvapili nejaké hady alebo miestne pumy, keďže sa nevyznáme a tak sme uvideli niečo ako miestnu lekáreň a povedali sme si, že tento ujo by mohol vedieť niečo anglicky. Zapozeral sa na nás a po chvíľke povedal, že môžeme ísť na horné poschodie, kde je veľká prázdna miestnosť, kde nás môže na noc zamknúť a tak budeme v bezpečí. Išli sme to okuknúť, bol tam oltárik, pekný nápis „Help ever, hurt never“ a tak sme sa tam zložili do spacákov. Ráno sme sa dozvedeli, že táto miestnosť bola niečo ako súčasť hinduistického chrámu, ktorý bol z druhej strany pod nami a ako sme odchádzali, chceli sme sa ujovi poďakovať. On nás však predbehol a povedal „Ďakujem, že ste prišli, ďakujem, že ste mi dali príležitosť pomôcť“. Po celom tele mi prebehli zimomriavky a v šoku sme išli pekne ďalej.

Cítili ste sa niekedy ohrození, v nebezpečenstve? Lebo pokiaľ viem, išli ste cez niekoľko “bombových” krajín. 

Tie mediálne bombové krajiny ako napríklad Turecko bolo pre nás úplne super, strávili sme tam zhruba 50 dní, stopovali sme aj vo východnejšej oblasti a všetko bez konfliktov. Rovnako aj Irán, pred ktorým má ešte stále veľa ľudí určitý odstup, kde už dávno nie sú žiadne vojny a Peržania sú jeden z najpohostinnejších národov, čiže prvé mesiace na Blízkom východe boli čo sa ľudí týka super. Ale dosť som sa bál, keď sme pár nocí kempovali v Hampi na jednom kopčeku v Indii a kde nám pred našou poslednou nocou náhodne povedali dvaja ľudia, že tam sa kempovať nemôže lebo sa tam sem tam prechádzajú pumy alebo tigre, už si nepamätám presne. Túto noc som veľa nenaspal. A inak ako povedal jeden z mojich obľúbených cestovateľských prezentujúcich: Je štatisticky väčšia šanca, že sa vám niečo stane v aute cestou domov ako, že vás smrteľne uštipne jedovatý had niekde v ázijskej džungli. Aj keď určitý pozor si asi treba dávať, paranoje nepomôžu. Každý proste len prijíma určité každodenné riziko, ktoré potom väčšinou už ani nevníma.

Na výlete s kamoškami v Iráne

 Obaja máte blízky vzťah k prírode a snažíte sa cestovať ekologicky, AKO?

Počas ciest a rôznych dokumentov sme už čo to videli a tak sa čoraz viac snažíme správať k prírode ohľaduplnejšie. Uvedomujeme si ako znečisťujeme našu zázračnú planétu. Ona nás síce prežije, ale my spolu s úžasnou faunou a flórou obrovsky trpíme, aj keď si to možno neuvedomujeme a tie dopady sú čoraz silnejšie a rýchlejšie. Veľa druhov vďaka tomu už vyhynulo. Dá sa to inak či už doma alebo na cestách o čom sme sa aj sami presvedčili. No ale tentokrát skôr poviem AKO ako PREČO… Napríklad si takmer nekupujeme balenú vodu ani v ázijských krajinách, zaobstarali sme si filtračnú fľašu, do ktorej môžete nabrať vodu aj zo špinavej kaluže a priamo bez čakania cez vstavaný filter vypiť. Takáto sranda mi s jedným filtrom vydržala celú cestu. A možno pre niekoho ako aj ďalšia motivácia okrem zdravia môže byť, že vlastne na tom aj dobre ušetríte. Ako veľká pohodlnosť a veľmi zlá vec mi prídu plastové slamky, ktoré dávajú všade, dokonca často aj do čerstvých kokosov kade tade naprieč krajinami a niekedy v zabudnutí ani nestihneme povedať bez slamky prosím. Naprieč plážami viacerých kontinentov sme videli už tisícky naplavených slamiek ako odpad, ktoré si cestujú hore dole naprieč oceánmi. A ktoré omylom slúžia ako potrava pre mnohé živočíchy.

Zasnežené hory Kaukazu v Gruzínsku

Veľmi významná je pre nás za posledné roky aj vegetariánska a vegánska strava, či už z pohľadu súcitu voči zvieratám, kedy je to navyše dnes už veľmi dostupné a tak sa na hlavne krutých veľkochovoch nemusíme vôbec podieľať alebo aj z pohľadu ekologického, kde je agropriemysel podľa viacerých zdrojov najväčším znečisťovateľom planéty. Keď už nie úplne vynechať, aspoň skúsiť výrazne obmedziť každodennú konzumáciu zvierat a živočíšnych výrobkov. Ekologickejšie mi príde aj konzumovanie lokálnych potravín, či už v danej krajine alebo u nás na Slovensku. Nepáči sa nám využívanie zvierat ako napríklad delfínov alebo slonov pre show a exotické jazdy, kde tie zvieratá obrovsky trpia a tak to nechceme podporovať kúpou lístka. Alebo sa snažiť vyhýbať palmovému oleju, alebo si nekupovať kožené výrobky či už oblečenie alebo rôzne suveníry, uprednostniť inú dopravu pred leteckou, menej drogérie, nebrať plastové sáčky na potraviny, celkovo nakupovať menej vecí, ktoré sa následne nevyužívajú a tak ďalej. Je toho dosť ako môžeme začať od seba už dnes. A to o veľa veciach ešte ani neviem. Takže kľudne napíšte do komentárov.

 Na záver, čo by ste odkázali našim fanúšikom, ktorí zvažujú opustiť systém práve takýmto spôsobom?

Ak vás to láka podobne tak moc nerozmýšľajte, stanovte si napríklad určitý dátum a vyrazte. A nečakajte na parťáka, my dvaja sme sa našli, že si suprovo sadneme aj dlhodobo a vieme, že je problém nájsť vôbec niekoho, ale choďte aj sami. Ak ste za to, že šťastie je skutočné, len keď je zdieľané tak sa nebojte toho, že budete stále sami. Väčšina cestovateľov „samotárov“ sa na cestách grupuje a určité úseky sa pridávajú jeden k druhému. A človek sám kráčajúc sa skôr niekde prihovorí alebo sa skôr niekto prihovorí jemu. Nenechajte si ujsť príležitosť dobrodružstva. Nenechajte si ujsť tú krásu. Dnes už môžete vidieť, že sa dá cestovať po celej planéte celkom jednoducho, každý po svojom a nemyslím si, že je to otázka peňazí. Ak aj niečo potrebujete tak si viete rýchlo našetriť. Proste nepočúvajte ľudí, že sa niečo nedá a choďte si za svojimi snami, robte chyby, učte sa a užite si to.

Ďakujem Peťo za rozhovor a držíme vám palce pri ďalších dobrodrúžstvach. 

Ak vás zaujíma viac o Peťovich a Kubovich cestách navštívte ich blog:
www.nntt.sk
alebo ich sledujte na facebooku a instragrame.

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Na záver Pol roka stopom vo videu:

 „Koľkokrát žijem buď v minulosti alebo budúcnosti. Buď spomínam alebo sa už teším a neviem sa dočkať ako dorazím tam a tam a ako mi bude potom dobre. Ale pritom mi uniká prítomnosť a to aj vtedy, keď je to jeden z tých momentov, na ktoré som sa najviac tešil. Nenechajte si ujsť príležitosť dobrodružstva. Nenechajte si ujsť tú krásu. Dnes už môžete vidieť, že sa dá cestovať po celej planéte celkom jednoducho, každý po svojom a nemyslím si, že je to otázka peňazí.“

Nádherna gruzínska babička

Ak sa ti článok páči, zdieľaj ho na sociálnych sieťach so svojimi priateľmi,
pomôžeš nám tak budovať stále lepší obsah. Ďakujeme!

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